The best view of the town is from a distance, from along the coastal path that leads to empty bays and unknown rocks from out there, the tallest buildings stand out above the rest: St. Rules, cathedral tower where 157 steps seem to lead to salvation and the sky aerial views of the houses Holy Trinity Church on South Street Calvinist home for the faithful pray for the soul once I watched the Messiah from a cheap seat my view blocked by medieval masonry emotion intensified by discomfort Alleluia! stand, blessed relief from the hard pew St. Salvator’s College, quadrangle of learning where I used to go early for lectures to sit on the benches feel the atmosphere admire the architecture but I see these things now only behind glass on paper framed and signed black and white waves crash on a charcoal beach